Frequently Asked Questions About Large-Format Tile and Natural Stone: Answers from M-STONE Experts

Everything you wanted to know but were afraid to ask

Over the years of working with large-format tile and natural stone we have answered thousands of questions from our clients. Some questions come up again and again, which is understandable: choosing facing materials and installing them is a serious decision that needs information. In this article we have collected the most common questions and give detailed, honest answers without marketing embellishment.

M-STONE is always ready to answer your questions in person. But this article will help you get the basic information and prepare for a consultation.

Section 1: Choosing a material

Question 1.1: Which is better, porcelain stoneware or natural stone?

Answer

There is no single answer; it all depends on your priorities.

Choose porcelain stoneware if

• Practicality matters more than uniqueness
• Your budget is limited
• The room has a heavy load (a kitchen, a corridor)
• You do not want to spend time on care
• You need large formats (over 120×240 cm)

Choose natural stone if

• You value uniqueness and natural beauty
• You are ready for regular care
• You want to invest in status and prestige
• The possibility of restoration is important
• It is a premium-class project

A compromise: use stone for accents (a fireplace, an island, a wall) and porcelain stoneware for practical zones.

Question 1.2: Does modern marble-look porcelain stoneware differ from real marble?

How to tell them apart

• Repetition of the pattern (ceramics repeat, although modern collections have 50+ variations)
• Tactile sensations (stone feels more alive)
• The edge (the structure of the material is visible)
• Depth of colour (stone is deeper)
• Surface temperature (stone is colder)

When it is critical

• On close inspection (countertops, small surfaces)
• For connoisseurs of real materials
• In premium interiors

When it does not matter

• Flooring in large rooms
• Bathroom walls
• Commercial sites

Question 1.3: Which tile format is best for my apartment?

Answer

It depends on the size of the room and your aesthetic preferences.

Recommendations by room area

Room area	Recommended format
Up to 4 m²	30×60, 60×60 cm
4-10 m²	60×60, 60×120 cm
10-20 m²	60×120, 80×80, 120×120 cm
20-50 m²	120×120, 120×240 cm
Over 50 m²	120×240 cm and larger

But there are nuances

• A large format in a small space can look grand and stylish
• Or, on the contrary, it can overwhelm the space
• The design also matters (bright or neutral)

An M-STONE tip: contact us with the room plan and we will help you choose the best format.

Question 1.4: Can large tile be laid in a small bathroom?

Answer

Yes, and it often looks wonderful!

Advantages of a large format in a small bathroom

• Fewer joints make the space feel larger
• A modern, clean look
• Easier to clean

Limitations

• More waste when cutting
• Harder installation (little room to manoeuvre)
• An experienced craftsman is needed

The best format for a 3-5 m² bathroom

• 60×120 cm: ideal
• 120×120 cm: possible, but many cuts
• 120×240 cm: difficult, but striking

Question 1.5: Which tile is suitable for underfloor heating?

Mandatory requirements

• Water absorption below 3% (better, below 0.5%)
• A mark ‘for underfloor heating’ (desirable)

Recommendations

• A thickness of 8-10 mm (not too thick)
• A matt or satin surface
• Neutral colours

Critically important: success is determined not by the tile but by the right adhesive (flexible S1/S2) and the laying technology!

Section 2: Installation and laying

Question 2.1: Can large tile be laid on your own?

Answer

In theory yes. In practice we do not recommend it.

Why laying a large format yourself is risky

• The weight of the tile (60×120 cm weighs 15-20 kg)
• At least 2 people are needed
• Special equipment is needed (suction cups, levelling systems)
• Critical accuracy of base preparation
• Experience working with large formats

When you can try it yourself

• Tile up to 60×60 cm
• A small area (up to 5-10 m²)
• You have experience laying tile
• You are ready for possible mistakes

An M-STONE recommendation: leave formats of 60×120 cm and larger to professionals. Saving on labour can end in the loss of expensive tile.

Question 2.2: How long does laying tile take?

Answer

It depends on many factors.

Approximate timings (work by a crew of 2-3 people)

Type of work	Productivity
Substrate preparation	1-3 days (depending on condition)
Waterproofing	1-2 days
Laying tile (standard)	10-15 m²/day
Laying tile (large format)	8-12 m²/day
Laying tile (complex cut-outs)	5-8 m²/day
Grout	15-25 m²/day

Example: a 6 m² bathroom (floor + walls ~25 m²):

• Preparation: 1-2 days
• Waterproofing: 1 day
• Laying: 2-3 days
• Grouting: 1 day
• Total: 5-7 working days

Factors that increase the time

• Complex room geometry
• Many cut-outs (pipes, sockets)
• Diagonal laying
• Book-match laying
• Natural stone

Question 2.3: What should the joint width be for large-format tile?

Answer

Minimum joints

• Theoretical minimum: 1.5 mm
• Practical minimum: 2 mm
• Recommended: 2-3 mm

Why not less

• Space is needed for the grout
• Compensation for micro-movements
• Preventing chips from thermal expansion
• Manufacturers recommend a minimum of 2 mm

For rectified tile

• 1.5-2 mm: possible with a perfect base
• 2 mm: optimal

For non-rectified tile

• 3-4 mm minimum

Question 2.4: What is rectified tile and is it needed?

Answer

Rectified tile is tile with trimmed edges for exact dimensions.

Differences

Parameter	Rectified	Non-rectified
Edges	Straight, at 90°	Slightly bevelled
Size accuracy	±0.3 mm	±1-2 mm
Minimum joint	1.5-2 mm	3-4 mm
Cost	Higher	Lower

When rectification is mandatory

• Minimal joints (under 3 mm)
• Large formats
• A modern minimalist interior
• Professional laying

When it is not critical

• A rustic style
• Joints of 4+ mm
• Stone-look tile with deliberate imperfections

Question 2.5: Is waterproofing needed in a bathroom if the tile is waterproof?

Answer

YES, absolutely!

Why tile does not replace waterproofing

• Joints (even epoxy ones) are a potential place for water to penetrate
• Junctions with plumbing
• Cracks (which can appear over time)
• Water gets under the tile through minor defects

Where water goes without waterproofing

• Into the screed
• Into the walls (brick, plasterboard)
• To the neighbours below
• Mould and fungus

Where waterproofing is mandatory

• The shower zone (floor + walls at least 20 cm)
• The bathtub zone
• Around the toilet (desirable)
• The whole perimeter of the floor (at least 10 cm up the walls)

An M-STONE recommendation: do not skimp on waterproofing! It prevents costly leak problems.

Question 2.6: What is a TLS and is it mandatory to use one?

Answer

A TLS (tile levelling system) is a device for bringing neighbouring tiles into one plane.

How it works

• The base is placed under the tile in the joint
• A wedge or cap presses the tiles to one level
• After the adhesive sets it is removed

When a TLS is mandatory

• Large-format tile (from 60×60 cm)
• Tile that may be warped
• A perfectly flat surface is important

When you can do without a TLS

• Small formats (up to 30×30 cm)
• A very experienced craftsman
• A budget renovation

An M-STONE recommendation: for large formats a TLS is the standard. The expense is minimal, and the result is a guaranteed flat surface.

Section 3: Budget and calculating materials

Question 3.2: How do you calculate the amount of tile with an allowance?

Answer

The basic formula: Quantity = Area × (1 + allowance factor)

Allowance factors

Type of laying	Allowance
Straight laying	5-7%
Offset laying	7-10%
Diagonal laying	10-15%
Herringbone	15-20%
Complex geometry	15-20%

Example: a 10 m² bathroom, offset laying. 10 × 1.10 = 11 m² must be ordered.

Important

• Order all the tile from one batch (the shade!)
• Keep 2-3 tiles in case of repairs
• For large formats, round up to whole slabs

Question 3.3: Where can you save and where should you not?

Answer

You can save on

• The tile design (there are nice budget collections)
• Tile in utility rooms
• A less well-known brand (with good characteristics)
• Delivering it yourself

Do not save on

• Adhesive (only quality, and flexible for large formats)
• Grout (especially epoxy for the bathroom)
• Waterproofing
• The craftsmen’s work (expensive tile + poor installation = money thrown away)
• A TLS for large formats

The golden rule: it is better to have cheaper tile + quality materials and installation than expensive tile + savings on everything else.

Question 3.4: Why is natural stone more expensive than tile?

Answer

What makes up the price of natural stone

• Extraction: quarry work, equipment
• Transport: stone is heavy, often from other countries
• Processing: sawing blocks into slabs, polishing
• Uniqueness: limited reserves, rare stones
• Waste: up to 30-50% of the material is lost during processing
• Manual labour: many operations are done by hand

By comparison

• Porcelain stoneware is mass-produced on automatic lines
• The raw material is available and cheap
• A minimum of waste
• Standardised production

Section 4: Use and care

Question 4.1: How do you wash large tile correctly?

Answer

Daily care

• Dry cleaning (a vacuum cleaner, a mop)
• Damp cleaning with clean water
• A soft cloth or microfibre

Periodic cleaning

• A neutral tile detergent
• Dilution according to the instructions
• Rinsing with clean water after washing

Deep cleaning

• Special products for deep cleaning
• Treating the joints
• Removing stubborn dirt

What NOT to do

• Do not use abrasive products on polished tile
• Do not pour a lot of water (it gets into the joints)
• Do not use acid on natural stone

Question 4.2: How do you care for marble?

Answer

The main rules

• No acids! (Vinegar, lemon and bathroom products with acid leave matt marks)
• Remove spills immediately (marble is porous and absorbs liquids)
• Only special products (neutral pH, for stone)
• Regular water-repellent treatment (every 6-12 months)
• Soft cloths (no abrasive)

What to do about stains

• Organic (coffee, wine): a compress with hydrogen peroxide
• Grease: an acetone compress
• Etching (matt marks from acid): polishing or restoration

Question 4.3: Can cracked tile be repaired without replacing it?

Answer

It depends on the type of damage

Can be repaired

• Small chips on the edges (repair mixes, waxes)
• Surface scratches (polishing products)
• Cracks in natural stone (filling with resin)

Better to replace

• Deep cracks through the whole tile
• Delaminated tile
• Numerous chips
• Damage in a visible place

A recommendation: keep a spare of tile (2-3 pieces) for possible replacement in the future.

Question 4.4: Why has the grout turned yellow and how do you fix it?

Answer

Causes of yellowing/darkening

• Dirt (building up in the pores of cement grout)
• Mould (in wet zones)
• A chemical reaction (poor-quality grout)
• Time (natural ageing)

How to fix it

Cleaning:

• A steam cleaner
• Special products for joints
• Bleach (carefully, test it!)

Renewal:

• Joint paint (a temporary solution)
• Re-grouting (removing the old grout and applying new)

Prevention

• Epoxy grout (does not darken, does not go mouldy)
• A water-repellent treatment of cement grout
• Regular cleaning of the joints

An M-STONE recommendation: invest in epoxy grout and forget this problem for good.

Section 5: Technical questions

Question 5.1: Will the floor bear the weight of large-format tile?

Answer

The weight of the covering

• 10 mm porcelain stoneware: ~25 kg/m²
• 20 mm natural stone: ~50-55 kg/m²
• Adhesive: ~5-7 kg/m²
• Total: 30-60 kg/m²

Load-bearing capacity of floors

• A reinforced concrete slab: 400-800 kg/m²
• A wooden floor: 150-250 kg/m²

Conclusion: for reinforced concrete floors there are no problems. For wooden ones a consultation with a structural engineer is needed.

When caution is needed

• Old buildings
• Wooden floors
• Very thick stone over a large area
• Loggias and balconies

Question 5.2: Can tile be laid over old tile?

Answer

Yes, provided that

• The old tile holds firmly (it does not sound hollow)
• The surface is flat
• There are no significant defects
• Raising the floor level is acceptable

Technology

• Cleaning and degreasing
• Scoring or a bonding primer
• Flexible adhesive
• Laying the new tile

When you must NOT

• The old tile is delaminating
• Critical height (doors, threshold)
• The floor is uneven
• There are waterproofing problems (a bathroom)

For thin porcelain stoneware (3-6 mm): an ideal solution for laying over old tile, with a minimal rise in level.

Question 5.3: What is the minimum temperature for laying tile?

Answer

Temperature requirements

• Minimum: +5°C (air and base)
• Optimal: +15-25°C
• Maximum: +35°C

At low temperatures

• The adhesive does not gain strength
• Extended hardening time
• Risk of delamination

At high temperatures

• The adhesive dries too quickly
• Poor adhesion
• The base needs to be dampened

For winter work

• Heating the room
• Or special frost-resistant adhesives
• Holding the temperature for at least 2-3 days after laying

Question 5.4: How long must the screed dry before laying tile?

Answer

A cement-sand screed

• Minimum: 1 day per 1 mm of thickness (up to 40 mm)
• A 40 mm screed = 28-40 days
• Optimal: 28 days

Fast-setting mixes

• 24-72 hours (according to the manufacturer’s instructions)
• But full drying takes longer

How to check readiness

• Polyethylene film on the floor for 24 hours
• If there is condensation under the film, the screed is not ready
• A moisture meter (a maximum of 4% moisture)

Consequences of laying on a damp screed

• Tile coming loose
• Efflorescence (white bloom)
• Mould under the tile
• Destruction of the adhesive joint

Section 6: Specific situations

Question 6.1: Can large tile be used outdoors?

Answer

Yes, but with requirements

Characteristics of tile for outdoors

• Water absorption below 0.5%
• Frost resistance (the snowflake mark)
• A thickness of 20 mm (the standard for outdoors)
• Slip resistance of R11 and above
• UV resistance

Laying technology

• On adhesive (for small areas)
• On adjustable supports (for terraces)
• A quality frost-resistant adhesive
• A slope for water drainage
• Expansion joints

Limitations

• Polished tile: NO (slippery, a finish that is not frost-resistant)
• Too thin: NO (fragile)

Question 6.2: How do you deal with the slipperiness of polished tile?

Answer

Solution options

• Choose another surface:
• Matt
• Lappato
• Structured
• An anti-slip coating:
• Special products (applied to the surface)
• A temporary effect (it must be renewed)
• Mats and runners:
• In wet zones
• By the entrance
• Correct zoning:
• Polished in dry zones
• Matt/structured in wet ones

An M-STONE recommendation: do not lay polished porcelain stoneware in bathrooms, in kitchens by the sink, or in swimming pools. Choose a matt or structured surface.

Question 6.3: What should you do if the tile sounds hollow?

Answer

A hollow sound means: there are voids under the tile, so it is not fully bonded to the base.

Causes

• Incomplete coverage with adhesive
• The adhesive drying too quickly
• An uneven substrate
• The wrong adhesive
• Violation of the technology

What to do

If it is a small area (1-2 tiles):

• It can be left (if it is not a critical place)
• Or the tiles can be replaced

If it is a significant area:

• Adhesive injection (difficult, not always effective)
• Or dismantling and re-laying

The danger of voids

• Cracks under load
• Delamination over time
• Problems with underfloor heating (overheating)

Prevention

• Double application of adhesive
• Control during laying
• Professional installation

Question 6.4: How do you choose the grout colour?

Answer

Three approaches

1. Grout matching the tile

• The joints blend into the surface
• A monolithic effect
• Ideal for large formats
• For minimalism

2. Contrasting grout

• Emphasises the geometry
• An accent on the shape of the tile
• For small tile and mosaics
• Retro and loft styles

3. Grout 1-2 tones darker

• A compromise
• The joints are visible but not conspicuous
• Practical (dirt is less noticeable)
• A universal choice

For white tile

• White grout: clean, but it gets dirty quickly
• Light grey: more practical, visually similar

A tip: test the grout on a sample of tile before applying it!

Contact information

M-STONE: answers to all your questions

📞 Phones: +38 068 100 27 96, +38 050 914 18 99 📧 Email: [email protected] 🌐 Website: https://mstone.ua/

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Geography of work

Kyiv: all districts Kyiv region: Brovary, Irpin, Bucha, Vyshhorod, Vyshneve, Boiarka, Kozyn, Koncha-Zaspa and others All of Ukraine: travel to projects

M-STONE’s advantages

✅ Free consultations: we will answer all your questions ✅ Honest advice: we do not push what you do not need ✅ Experience: thousands of completed projects ✅ Transparency: we explain every stage ✅ A guarantee: we answer for our work

The current cost of work for your project can be calculated in the online calculators or confirmed by the manager: it depends on the material, the slab format and the condition of the substrate. The consultation is free.